These are electrical units that allow you to change the current coming from devices from AC to DC. These include motion sensor systems, handling equipment, and much more.Īside from this, the converters made by this brand are considered to be some of the best. I can’t figure what is impeding flow to the battery.Magnetek is a famous company which is mostly known for manufacturing electrical devices. It was charging for a little bit, but somewhere over the last week I stop charging again. I haven’t been able to find the 40 amp in-line fuse shown in the electrical diagram, but I took the converter out, went over all the wires took things out, put them back in secured it. Could this be stopping the flow to the battery? None of the buttons read except for “battery” but it has been wrong. I popped it off the wall to see what’s going on behind it. I also have this Micro Monitor shown in the 3rd picture. The C and D post (red and white on the right) alre also reading 12.4V. With 120V AC coming in, I’m reading 14.5 V and all of my fuses except for the last three which are reading 12.4V (backfed from the battery). I’ve run a bunch of test and here’s what I found: I’ve got it all set up just moved in and I realized my house batteries are not charging off of my generator. Hey gang, I’ve got a 1997 Fleetwood Mallard 27G. Follow the positive cable from the battery(ies), and you should find that breaker close. Could be tucked away somewhere in a slide-out housing. The breaker could be on the back or side of box. If the batteries are in a tight box, or a slide out, the breaker may be used as the main buss stud, over the battery terminals. Since you know the connection to the battery can't be through the charge line, because the battery side of the fuse block is still powered up, then it has to be the 40a breaker, which has to only have the charge line on the fused side (you have to have constant B+ to lock up the breakaway). On the 40a breaker itself, you see that the charge line is on one side, and the B+ side is being used as a constant B+ buss. So, this particular model, with the not always standard additional 12v accessories, might have a different/upgraded converter/charger, with a dedicated battery charge line. At least, not according to the vehicle specific fuse block. Which would mean the connection between the parallel units would be at that fuse block. The diagram shows the converter charge line to the fuse block. If you have converter power to the converter side, and battery power to the battery side, you have a connection to the converter, and the battery. I'm assuming there's a cig lighter/12v outlet somewhere in the trailer for 12v "accessories". So you put those on the battery side.Ĭ is the "battery" coming in, and B is the red wire on the back side, which appears to be connected to the C terminal. That makes sense powering up 1-6, as the 15a HVAC circuits would draw too much current for the converter alone. White is plug/chassis/batt ground common.That is the ground terminal, correct? (Where are you grounding your meter?)Ī is converter output, and in this case, I'm assuming that's the blue wire on the stud. The AC generator then powers the entire system through the AC circuit, including the converter, which charges/maintains the battery bank.ĭ is ground. Which means the only DC to the generator, is for the starter. According to this diagram, there is no B+ DC charge line from a generator. When plugged into AC, you are powering up the converter. They run about $20-$30 on amazon, and this worked for me until I finally replaced the entire converter. If you are not quite ready to do a full converter swap, you can buy a 1-2 amp automotive battery trickle charger, and connect it to your battery, and plug it into your outside 120V outlet on the trailer. Replaced it with a Progressive Dynamic PD4645V RV Inteli-Power 4600 Series Converter and all the problems went away. The MagneTek converter in my 2000 Keystone trailer would not keep the battery charged (as in the battery would drain WHILE the converter was plugged in and powered), and put out such sloppy power, it was burning out the LED replacement lights I installed, and would not even run the replacement electronic vent fans I installed (they would run fine on battery power, but gave error beeps when trying to run on converter power) You will be much happier in the long run. I would recommend replacing the entire convert with a new aftermarket converter. In all honesty, those MagneTek converters were barely functional to begin with.
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